Maybe this discussion should stay on shaders?
I can delete this if its felt it is diluting the discussion but it feels like the expertise is in the room and might take the bait 
Ocean waves (swell not ripples) can be described like this…
They change shape as they approach land and the depth of water gets less…
As the wave approaches land from deep ocean the wavelength shortens and the height increases as the ocean depth decreases. Waves where there is a sudden change in depth are different to when there is a gradual change in depth.
There is an orbital movement of water particles that is perhaps what causes the the wave to break (and sometimes “barrel”) when the wave gets to a certain height, speed and wavelength.
This can be looked at as a 2d problem but it gets interesting when its viewed as a 3d problem and the wave direction is at an angle to the land which gives a “peeling” wave where the breaking section seems to peel along the wave.
I wonder if this could be a particle physics simulation or perhaps easier would be a mesh displacement like the Ripple discussions on this forum but that also incorporates a torsional displacement that is a function of water depth too?
It would be interesting to see how different sea beds effect the shape of the wave… gradual depth change, sharp depth change, step change, undulating change etc.
Any thoughts?