How to Cap / Solid these glass panels?

glass.3dm (10.0 MB)

This is now my second day attempting to make this stl exportable and rhino refuses to join anything I have tried , even with Rhino running in a virtual machine I am liking how much smoother it is to run compared to freecad and would like to continue using

and this is meant to be the easy step …

mesh fill all holes does nothing either also tried shrink wrapping each part individually , I have like over 400k naked edges I need to somehow join

also how can you get an full object list ?

Rhino models don’t have an “object list,” there is no hierarchy to show.

To just make the glass some sort of solid you can try OffsetSrf with the Solid option, though presumably that’s unnecessary if they’re going to be trimmed and joined to the surrounding frame geometry. Trying to grasp the concept of what you’re trying to do here…are you trying to make some random model of a car you found online printable? That’s frankly just inadvisable. Just the lights you left in that file are a pile of bad geometry that will take considerable time to fix. It’s just not a fun job to attempt for a beginner. Start smaller.

What was running Rhino in a virtual machine supposed to accomplish? It will do nothing but cause OpenGl crashes.

FreeCad loads up the entire object list I would have thought the program that uses them actually supported it as well

I need to print windows in clear , I did export the body in obj for FreeCAd to make every solid to export to stl but then the slicer never see’s the roof and 1 of the doors even tho it solid in Freecad ,

every time I load up a stl / obj that is exported directly from Rhino slicer programs just say its full of errors and that was when using match Mesh Edge

if Rhino ran on Linux I would have swapped over to it years ago , amazed how well its running with software rendering in VGA mode … I know others got it working using Vulkan but apparently all that broke with Version 8

You’re making no sense here and without the rest of the file–which came from where?–its not possible to offer any specific advice on how to proceed to fix it. If it’s all like the headlight covers then the model is full of “bad” surfaces and unnecessary details for a print.

If you want to try to magic-fix it with Shrinkwrap, you will need to have it scaled to the size of your print. Also, 3D printing clear elements is technically possible but is not likely to turn out awesome without a ton of post-work.

Command: SelBadObject
662 surfaces added to selection.

this left front glas - left from the drivers position:


consists of
882 curves, 276 surfaces

???

my guess: bad data in the original app, exported with the wrong selection and setting and/or file-format.

if you want further help, you should focus on one single element / part.
where does the data come from ? link or file-upload
what did you export ? link or file-upload
what was reported in the commandline, when rhino opende / imported the file ?

with the data posted above it is impossible to help - you would need to go through all surfaces and clean them up or extract some curves and remodel them…

what’s the next step, what do you need the data for ?
for example 3d print a 1:50 Model ?

cap

just to clarify:
the _cap command in Rhino will try to close / fill planar openings of surfaces or Polysurfaces.

Text often causes problems when exporting meshes…

For the window glass where you have inner and outer surfaces you can use the loft command and select a matching pair of edges. Repeat for the other sides, then select all the surfaces and use join to make them into a solid.

Alternatively, and more quickly, you can delete the inner surface and - as Jim suggested - use Offset on the outer surface, setting the distance to 0.19 and the Solid option to Yes to create a solid window in one hit. Note that you may have to flip the offset direction so the little white arrows point inward.

HTH
Jeremy

1 Like

There seems to be enough information available in the glass model to rebuild the headlights:

1.1. Start by using Revolve on these curves,
with the centreline as the axis and selecting the Full Circle option,


to give a complete rim.

1.2. Use the Radius command to find the radii of the front and rear glass curves and use the Centre Osnap to drop a point at their centre.

1.3. Create a Sphere centred on the point and with the radius previously measured for each of the lines. Rotate the spheres about their centres so their seams are on the opposite side to the lamp being built. Then use the new rim to Trim the spheres so that you are left with just the new font and back faces of the glass.

If you are going to 3d print a small model then consider whether the lettering and pimples will be to small to show up - if so, stop here and Join your three parts together to create a solid light unit.

2.1 If you do want to add the pimples, use the Centre Osnap again to mark the centres of these two curves, to establish an axis.

2.2 Then extend this curve with a line to its centre and another parallel to the axis and long enough to pass well through the lamp.

2.3 And then Revolve the curve around the axis to make an extended pimple. Copy this to each of the other pimple locations.

2.4 At each location, use the front face of the lamp to Trim off the excess pimple, then use the pimple to Trim a hole in the front face of the lamp.

If you don’t want to include the text, you can stop here and Join all your surfaces together.

3.1 If you do want to model the text, use DupEdge to make curves from the edges of the front face of each existing letter.

3.2 For the lettering at the centre of the lens, with the new curves all selected, use SetPt to change their Y coordinate to zero. This will flatten the curves onto the xz plane.

3.3 Select each curve in turn and see where there are a lot of control points close together. Where that happens, Shatter the curve and Rebuild those high-density sub-curves using a point count of 5 and a degree of 3 for preference or a count of 7 and a degree of 5 if you have a curve bending in more than one direction.

3.4 When all the curves are simplified, Join the sub-curves together again.

3.5 Select all the curves and extrude them through the lens and well out the other side. Use the outer face of the lens to Trim the excess extrusion inside the lens. Use the extrusions to Trim the outer face, removing the portions that fall inside the letters. Be careful with A and O where you need to leave the island in the middle of the letter.

3.6 Create another sphere, on the same centre point as before, with a radius 0.05 greater than the radius of the outer face. Rotate it around its centre so the seam is behind the lens. Use this sphere to trim the excess lettering extrusion outside the lens. Then use what is left of the extrusions (make sure you select all of them together, including the inner walls of A and O) to trim the sphere, this time removing the portions that are outside the letters and the islands in A and O.

3.7 All the surfaces can now be joined together.

The lettering at the top of the lamp can be handled in the same way, except that the lettering is at an angle, so a Cplane will need to be set perpendicular to a surface normal positioned on the lens front face in the middle of the lettering. I’ll leave that task as an exercise…

I’m attaching an update to the glass file which includes the remodelled lamp. You will see that I have started by splitting your curves and surfaces onto different layers, then gone on to create further layers for different purposes. It makes life a lot easier if you keep construction lines separate from surfaces. It’s also easier to set colours by layer rather than by object and you can work more quickly. I would commend this approach to you.

glass 001.3dm (13.7 MB)

HTH
Jeremy

Thanks will try loft soon

not too sure where the file came from I was given it and need to print it out for someones birthday in a months time ~900mb

prob came from here 1971 Ford Falcon GT-HO