Hey bud ! Ok, I’ve looked at the file.
Let me start here:
- THIS will NOT close and 3D-Print. You’ve already guessed this, but let me CONFIRM it for you here and now.
- YOUR GOAL CAN BE ACHIEVED, but it WILL take some WORK on YOUR part.
- PAID Tutorials MIGHT help, but BEWARE of those constructed to - it seems - more show off how “smart” the presenter is than actually share needed insight. THAT seems to be the biggest problem with such “tutorials” whether paid or free on YOU TUBE. There MAY be SOME that are GOOD, but you’ll have to be pretty perceptive to sort them from the rest of the field.
ALL of that being said, let me touch on a couple of things you’ll need to be familiar with in order to proceed to success.
ONLY CLOSED POLYSURFACES will successfully save out (EXPORT) as successful STL files to 3D print. (IF you get a successful STL file, mesh density in RHINO translates DIRECTLY to smoothness of the printed result - ACCEPTABLE trade-off is file-size.)
A CLOSED polysurface is achievable in RHINO but requires YOU to be aware of the condition of the component - the POLYSURFACE - at every step of the process until at the VERY END you again check AFTER the FINAL operation and the result is - again - a PROPERLY CLOSED POLYSURFACE. RHINO will report the condition (open or closed) as you go along. THIS REPORT IS ACCURATE and CAN BE RELIED UPON. Open the PROPERTIES side-bar and pin it to the right-edge of your screen. LEAVE IT THERE.
You’ll see conversations on topics such as class-A surfaces, etc. MOST of those are simply “Smartest guy in the room (discussion)” competitions, and have little meaning to most mere portals simply trying to achieve an industrial-level successful model, so unless you’re interested, or it applies DIRECTLY to a specific employment need, bypass those as SOON as you encounter ANY conversation on that or any related subject until AFTER you’ve mastered the basics necessary to meet your immediate need.
Ok, I can help you, but real help will take more than the space available here. STILL, let’s start -
Remember the LAST item you received shipped to you in a carboard box ? Ok, forget the ITEM you received,and go DIRECTLY to the carboard box. NOW - pick up the packing tape, and close the box, TAPING UP every single opening of the BOX until you’ve achieved a completely closed volume. THAT is DIRECTLY analogous to a CLOSED POLYSURFACE CUBE in RHINO. It LOOKS like a “solid” cube but YOU fully realize its REALLY an EMPTY VOLUME bounded by SURFACES ! THAT is what you MUST ACHIEVE in RHINO to later 3D-Print your part.
Now- imagine EVERY SINGLE “shape” in your car model. NONE of them are closed POLYSURFACES. Not a problem. All YOU have to do is decide how YOU want to proceed. What I would do, is start with the simplest surfaces first, and use “offsetsrf”, then at the command line pick “flip-all” from the choices, and POINT THE ARROWS INWARD. Then based on the scale you want to print out to, decide how thick you want the plastic piece of that surface to be printed, and use THAT as the thickness (for example 1-5mm, etc) . REALIZE that RHINO will NOT give you PROPER edge-treatments, so YOU will have to go back and make corrections to the result, but at least the result gives you an EFFECTIVE PLACE TO START.
There are “things” you will do to the resulting surfaces, like deleting the NEW SURFACE and re-running the command and picking the options in the command line that will give you a closed result IF you like how the “TEST” Surface looked when you created it.
IF you like THAT result, HIDE it and move to another surface, and repeat the process. SELECT the “part” you just made and check over in the PROPERTIES sidebar Does RHINO report that its a CLOSED polysurface? Do YOU like the result ? IF you DON’T like the result, restore the seperate thin offset surface, and work with IT and the main one to CREATE A CLOSED VOLUME of THAT surface. Let me know, and I’ll tell uou what to do if this is where you stop because you are stuck. IF you know what to do, then proceed … When you get THAT surface the way YOU want it, hide THAT one and MOVE TO THE NEXT ONE. (Put it on a hidden layer if you want to hide it that way, but I just use hide, as its probably already on the layer I want it to be on while I’m working on it. Sometimes not, tho, so either way is fine. Hide the part when you see its successfully CLOSED, and move on to the NEXT surface.
Do ALL of the simple BODY surfaces this way, and then get back to me. The other parts will be done a little differently.
Ok, THIS WILL get you started. Other comments, while helpful, kinda fall into the “smartest” category I mentioned above, and should LARGELY be bypassed (ignored) as unhelpful, ESPECIALLY references to other people doing your work for you, or those bypassing the point entirely by telling you to go away and spend some money on THEIR tutorials, first.
Get started as I’ve described here, and get back to me when you have all the simpler outer surfaces done. I’ll tell you then, what to do NEXT to do YOUR OWN WORK as you CLEARLY wanted to do from the beginning !
Ok, Good luck, and
All the BEST from Texas -