I do not know why but I split a caped loft surface and used a Brep component to split and the ground plane as the cutting object. It splits from one Brep to another by highlighting but I cannot remove either side from the split. This is an exercise that I am working on. Is it because the it is a lofted surface? I looked at a training film and it used a closed cylinder to split a sphere. Just not sure why I cannot get this to work. Should I try Boolean subtract?
Here is a screen shot and the script. Thanks in advance for your help.
Wow thank you, It is beautiful with the addition of the color swatch. This may sound dumb but if I only wanted to use one half of the cut? How do I delete the other half?
So in Grasshopper, geometry only “carries” as far as you take it. Meaning, where you have your “Dispatch” node you are already splitting the two halves. So if you just bake one of those halves or continue more grasshopper logic with just one of those halves as an input, the other half will not be included in the result.
Does that make sense?
So for the custom preview node, get rid of the “Entwine” components and just feed in the half you want and the color you want as a single input item.
Yes makes total sense. I do get a little lost from Grasshopper to Rhino as far as modifications. But you have been so helpful. I try and wait until the last minute to ask for help. Until I have a complete face plant in my palm.
Fran
May need more help along the way. I am a furniture designer in metal. Pretty advanced and good to sell the pieces as art objects. I have been dying to get into parametric modeling and have worked on it with the idea of 3d printing. But it just does not translate. Now I am going to apply mesh patterns and have the individual pieces cut CNC on a water jet. It is going to take a lot of sampling. Like even if I use .062 steel am I going to need to offset the surface to make the difference in the depth. And of course how do I fabricate a frame without fabricating a (in this case) a bench within a bench or a double structure. But I am moving a long. And this bench is actually a commission so I have to figure it out.
I am obsessed with parametric modeling. But not being an architect or working in wood, I am going to have to figure it out as I go.
Haha that’s most of us posting on the forums. I think in general many people have tried to come up with their own solutions and we all need help and the forums here are a great place to get that help!
-Depending on the size/complexity of the surface patterning you could leverage steel that has a thick enough gauge to be self supporting, which if done properly that gauge wouldn’t have to be too substantial given the form you are showing. It would of course be a lot of seam welding and cleaning up.
-Another option would be to create “developable strips” of the overall metal bench, CNC cut the metal in a gauge that offers flexibility, and then wrap it over a CNC wood frame skeleton (mimicking the bench shape end result) that you can clamp onto and then do minimal welds to join the strips into the overall bench form and you could discard the wood form after the fact or keep as a jig in case of creating multiple iterations of pattern or multiple benches.
There’s certainly lots of different options for how you could frame/support the surface. My questions would be the following:
-Self supporting frame? (The surface pattern panels are joined and the form itself supports itself)
-Ribbed frame (essentially contours/cross sections spread across the bench form, CNC cut to be supporting ribs, if plasma cut steel, these could be quite minimal and even artistically expressive in their own right depending on what kind of design you are going for.
-Truss like structure?
-“Tied Arch” structure with rods/cables pulling the curvature together to prevent bowing/twisting
-If you want/need fasteners, what kind and strictly functional or decorative? concealed? exposed?
Anyways, lot of ways to achieve what you are after and as you get a little further into it with more specifics I (and I’m sure others here) would be happy to help it progress.
Thanks/ I sent you an e-mail. LMK if you would formally commit to some consultation time and what that would cost by the hour. Like you said there are many ways to proceed with this. I was thinking of epoxying the steel to the frame. But welding thicker steel for self sufficient stability is an option. The thicker the steel the more straight on the curved portions. It is a commission so it will get sorted out.
