We are a marine canvas company, and use Rhino4 to edit and flatten our 2d and 3d patterns/frames, digitized using a Prodim. We then import into Rhino to flatten to prepare for the cutting process. Just wondering if someone can advise if we are going about this the most efficient and effective way, as it takes a few days and more often than not, the finished product is not accurate. Please be gentle, we only do the way we have been shown, and do not understand why we do it this way
We import the digitized 3d pattern/structure from the prodim into Rhino
Creating 4 layers
External (red)
Internal (dark green)
Surface (cyan)
Line (dark blue)
highlight all, group together
setting current layer to ââexternalââ, we âtrace overâ the digitised lines using âPolylineâ& âLine through curveâ
In perspective view we ensure we have not picked up any âZâ lines, if we have, control points on and move them appropriately
once entire piece has been âtracedâ, we copy the whole thing, and delete the âgroupâ from the copied piece, leaving us with the traced lines only.
with control points on, we smooth the lines out, being careful as not to alter the shape digitized.
Once happy we join lines to create 4 sides
current layer âsurfaceâ we use sweep to rails, using the shaded viewpoint to see where there is more shape (also checking we have split using copy in the correct area)
if there are any internal markings, we change to the âinternalâ layer and project these to the surface
changing to layer âlineâ now we use smash (changing settings to explode: no label: yes)
when they have been smashed, we rotate/or mirror according to labelling (if we needed to split using copy we then join back together using orient)
then we use Curve-Curve from object-duplicate boarder - deleting the surface
we then group the remaining, export as dxf and place into Accumark for pattern processing, marker creations and finally cutting.
I think the biggest issue is that we are having to either split the big piece too many times to ensure the most accurate flat finished piece and its all abit trial and error, it also takes a lot longer than preferred to go from field to cutting
Iâve been looking into plug ins that look to eliminate the process of splitting, (the one that looks most appropriate is âExact Flatâ but thought we might just see if we are utilizing Rhino the correct way, or is it the process we take that is the issue.
I am trying to re learn after being out for about 5 years, and the person teaching me isnât sure why we do it this way, and said its more or less, a lot of trial and error. Surely not!
Thank you in advance for any help/advice! And apologies if this is hard to understand, I am doing the best I can!
Kind Warm Regards
Kylie
Hi Kylie - you might try Squish rather than Smash for the flattening - it may take some fiddling with the settings but will probably yield better results than smash. Usually. It does depend on the surfaces mesh (render mesh) so to work around that it is worth meshing the surface first- using the detailed controls in the Mesh command (more info here - http://wiki.mcneel.com/rhino/meshfaq )
then squish the resulting mesh.
Thankyou for your time! I am currently reading through the link supplied, in the mean time, here is 2 dxf fileâs of the type of surfaceâs, it is just a trial but majority of our things will look like the GBBB.dxf (this is a bow cover) and KBP.dxf (the one I am having the most issues with)
Mainly, I just want to make sure we are making the most of Rhino. And if we donât need extra plug ins ect.GBBB.dxf (17.2 KB)
Thankyou! I did read a few things on Squish, I did briefly look for it, but didnât have much luck, Thankyou for the link, I am currently having my mind blown!
Also, @pascal & @Willem
Would you suggest we arrange an upgrade for our current Rhino? Or am I better to get my head around V4 (what we currently use) first?
I am trying my best and I feel the more I understand the Why, I will get a handle on the How.
Iâd definitely upgrade, as soon as, V5 is a good advancement on V4 with some really nice features.
I was just looking at your file and wondered how I would approach it and came up with a method which may be of use:
Save as a rhino file;
Group all geometry from digitiser;
Create a parent layer to place digitizer layers as itâs sub-layers (so the parent can be locked and turned on/off and keep the layerset for reference);
Zoom into the level layer geometry;
Create 2 construction lines at Rhinoâs x and y, typing 0 for first pts to ensure accurate placement;
Use âOrient3Ptâ command to match your filed origin with Rhinoâs origin, again typing 0 for Ref and target first pts;
Zoom extents to see how things look;
If necessary, create alignment geometry to straighten up your digitiser input to a friendly orientation;
âProjectToCPlaneâ your alignment geometry;
âRotateâ everything using 0 as the rotation centre and the alignment geometry;
âMoveâ everything so that a desired point on the input is at zero, type 0 for move destination;
The input is now much easier to inspect
There are differing ways to build the model wires, of course, one way is to create points at you Z legs;
âCurveThroughPtâ will deliver a nice curve to start with;
âRebuildâ the curve if it looks a bit wonky;
Build your surfaces;
use âUnrollSrfâ as a first choice, then âSquishâ if that doesnât work, check out the help on these, it says there that âsmashâ is for stretchy, rubbery materials;
You could join the surfaces before unrolling and choose not to explode, which will keep things under control, then you could explode after flattening and rotate the pieces together.
Donât know how the cover should look, but here is the file I played around with;
Thankyou for your time and your play around. I am blown away by how much easier this process looks, compared to how we have been doing things! I love the idea of matching our machines origin with Rhinos!
The amount of times we get lost zooming and panning all over the show!
I have just downloaded the 90day trial of Rhino 5, to get me through in the meantime, and am in discussionâs with the boss for the upgrade. (loving the easy to use tabs at the top! )
Thank you again, and THANKS TO EVERYONE ON HERE! I donât know how we have survived without the Forum!
Just having a look at the other dxf Kylie, it may be useful to split the curves at natural places, after youâve created them and before building the surfaces and use âEdgeSrfâ between the 2 part curves, as the fabric will stretch between these curves and this will give a developeable surface. Then join the other bits back on for the unrolling.
Once the surface is flattened, you can further refine the edge curves and add a bit of an offset for a trial fit.
p.s. Iâm sure you could ignore some of these z-legs where they bunch up and use instinct to tidy up.
)
