I need to fillet the inner top and front edges with a 0.200" fillet. When I use fillet edge I get error because of the tight curve at top left corner. (see green image below). I can fillet all edges except for the tight curve and that does fine. (see gold image below). How can I manually edit the third example to simulate a fillet across this edge that is causing the problem? I have this same type of issue often and need to find a work around. Thanks in advance.
@markintheozarks It might improve the situation, perhaps, but as @Lagom mentioned earlier, the solid has several G1 discontinuities at the locations you also indicated with the arrows.
Well, it would, see a quick futz of one problem area below, but first of all, I would sort out the model as such, with its discontinuities and surfaces with a huge number of isocurves.
This is a 3D printed block that holds one corner of a F-35 bulkhead in a rotisserie type holding fixture. Not worth the time or effort to fix all the issues. It will serve it’s purpose and in a month or so will be all dinged up from loading and unloading bulkheads and will have paint drips everywhere from the assemblers doing their touch up.
Thanks again for the work around.
This is a similar block as the model posted above. The shape acts as a guide for ease of loading.
@C_West Could you show the object in its operational context? You’ve made me curious to see it doing its actual job. It would be interesting to see it in its intended application, perhaps installed on or being used with an F-35.
Unfortunately we are not allowed to post pictures or models of F-35 parts or sub-assemblies on the internet. I did find a bulkhead that is of a variant we don’t build posted on the internet. Imagine a similar type fixture that the four corners of the bulkhead sits in and is held down with toggle clamps. See the area marked with the red box.
Yes, I use PETG-CF for blocks that need to withstand heavy clamping pressure to hold larger parts like the bulkhead shown above. For smaller, lighter weight parts I use Polymaker Polymax Tough PLA
The blocks have recesses on each corner modeled in to receive threaded inserts normally used for wood. The inserts have an interrupted thread that cuts through the block making for a very durable and secure method for attaching it to the fixture. I just download the STP file for the inserts from McMaster-Carr, modify the model for recessing into the block and add an extension so that longer bolts will pass through the insert without damaging the block. I like the flanged inserts.
I like the heat set for M3 and M4 screws in thinner prints, but for 1/4-20, 5/16-18 and 3/8-16 bolts the “wood” inserts are perfect. In over 3 years of use, I have never had one installation fail.
Shoot me an email at aerofiles@mail.com if you want to chat more about 3D printing.