On each build I am testing out different approaches. On this one I modeled the panels as simply as possible, with creases in the corners when I needed a sharp corner. Then after the shape was OK I added creases manually by extruding the edges first 2 mm and then 7 mm. And then added details like this in those sharp corners. It’s important to remove the creases afterwards.
This gives a smoother transaction over the edge, but I liked that approach, it gives a nice, smooth, handmade look that suits cars from the 80’s IMO. And it was fast to do.
Always think of SubD’s as 3 dimensional nurbs curves, that makes everything easy. In the Dino build I made I modeled the corners Like the bottom illustration here and you can see that there are benefits in both approaches.
Yeah, well so I ended up procastinating and did some panel tuning and then testet it in orange… and now I need to add the emblem on the hood and some other details too… Added a simple roof liner too so the interior isn’t orange Darn this…
Thanks for sharing so much detail @Holo! I really enjoyed looking through the images. And yes, I see what you mean with the two approaches, such a subtle thing but the look and feel is so different.
Did some revisions on my lil 911 love letter, and managed to get the master printed in resin. This will be used to create a tooling for vac forming, and then the vac formed parts will be used for paint samples for custom 911 builds. This was my first time 3d printing, and wowwwwwww what a learning curve, especially with resin.
one tip for printing with resin, tip the model slightly up and to one side to avoid your first few layers delaminating and making a mess. you want to avoid large flat surfaces that are perfectly parallel to the build plate. seems counterintuitive, but you don’t want to be oriented perfectly x,y,z… you want oblique rotations to each axis. That way you get smaller layers in large flat areas and it tends to build more reliably.
Generally true - in this case, I knew I was going to sand the bottom “skirt” flat by hand in post processing. Tipping up can lead to better surface quality, but of course it’s also more print time, and I found the print got less stable the further it gets from the build plate. For this particular print, the best result was to reduce my layer thickness to 0.03 mm and print it flat. It’s definitely all about where you place the close out layers - in this case tipping up resulted in more z layer lines in the hood, vs the top of the roof. A tricky balance for sure.
I’ll just slide this in here…
If you haven’t tested out the latest beta version of TwinMotion (Community edition) then I strongly suggest you do so. This is realtime with Unreal’s Lumion light engine turned on:
There are some incredible results in these real-time renderers. Twinmotion and Vantage 2 seem to be really pressing ahead with rapid GPU rendering. Not sure about Octane.
You just have to be aware of thier limitations, which often take the form of material or lighting features being dropped.
I was thinking of giving Twinmotion/Unreal a go for a heavy render of the Star Trek ship I’ve been struggling with for a couple of months now.
Hi Holo, do you have a render comparison of the same scene between this version, which should be Twinmotion 2023.2 preview 1 and the previous version, Twinmotion release 2023.1.2? Thanks
Darn this… 
