Hi, I have at set of jpeg pictures of a ski boot in different views that I want to model in Rhino. I have right side, left side, top, front, back and bottom views.
The thing is that I cannot figure out the best way to build the model from these pictures. I have no problem with drawing curves or insert the pictures etc. It’s the approach itself to the mission that fails for me. How do I get decent surfaces from the drawings and put them togheter to complete ski boot? What do I start with to do everything in the right/smartest order?
What are your suggestions for me?
Has anyone done a model of a ski boot for example?
Hi Matthias,
try to break down the form into basic (prime) surfaces and surfaces that blend between other surfaces. Build the prime surfaces first and try to let them “dictate” the connecting surfaces as much as possible.
To start try to make a rough model just to get a volume going. then build a nicer model while using the reference images around it. try to find a “patchlayout” that flows nicely and uses 4 sided surfaces as much as possible.
If you have more specific questions or a file, I might be able to help further
Have a look at the alias documentation. (F3 NURBS Fundamentals)
They are doing a great job explaining more of the theory of nurbs modelling. Also here.
be sure to keep all middle surfaces tangent across the center. for this the first and second control point have to be on the same height.Free forming the surfaces is kinda just guessing, having a 3D scan helps a lot. pay attention to the shape on the bottom. My model doesn’t capture the roundness at the sole. this can not be added later so you have to start there again - all other surfaces depend on this…
again begin with the large shapes and work your way through the blends. Often the shape of the blends tells you that the first surfaces are not quite right. In that case it is useless to try to force a nice blend. Often the problem is with base geometry. then its better to adjust them instead.
Wild indeed. Lots of parts in a ski boot. I would need more info on the individual major bits - the foot shell and the ankle holster before attempting to do any real modeling. I’m not sure what the target is for this model but if manufacturing is involved, the parts drive everything.
Thanks for you answer. The idea is not to make a model for production at all. My target is first of all to learn how to build a ski boot in Rhino and then I will use the model for a kind of template for other products. The accuracy of the ski boot model is not 100% important with all the small details in shape. I’m more interested in the proportions and how to shape the general “volume/shape”. Maybe 75-80% accuracy with detaling all the small parts and so.
If I were only trying to get the general shape I would start with a set of profile curves - Front view and side view. 4 open curves that come under the foot bed & above the clamp plates. I would then rebuild those curves with a low point count - <10 for sure. I would then loft the 4 beginning with the heel -> side -> front -> side -> close to heel. You would then have a blobby (but smooth) approximation of the boot that is open at the top and in the middle of the foot bed. I would then go to point edit mode on that loft to reshape the blob to more accuracy. You can add isocurves in areas where you need more detail. If I had time I would sketch up a demo because this seems like a fun project/learning.
What do you think about starting with one cylinder as the shaft “leg part” and then just add Control points and then drag them in to the foot area…towards the toe box?
You could do it that way too. An open cylinder is as good a starting point as what I described for blobby modeling. The primary issue is to keep the number of control points to a minimum.
Ah ok i understand. I will try to model a basic boot and then also try to keep the CP:s to a minimum. Thanks a lot for your input on this one so far appreciate it!!!
Maintaining continuity on the cylinder seam is a challenge so the first thing I would do is add 2 IsoCurves, 1 on either side and close to that seam. Otherwise it becomes a crease in a hurry.
I will dig deeper into those links
(but better with a new file )