Nice! The David scans look pretty accurate.
How about the photogrammetry? What kind of accuracy do you think you’re getting 0.5mm or maybe 1mm?
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I don`t want to hijack this thread but long story short: it depends. Theoretically, all scanners of this price level have better quality than 0.5mm in some patch sizes. The quality of each patch scan depends on patch size and this can be changed by the operator during setup but…
even if each scan patch has an accuracy of about 0.1mm you can align them together into the object which is different from the real even 10% or more in measure. It would be an operator error and it should be monitored all the time to prevent it. It all depends on operator experience. More expensive scanners are easier to operate but there also deviation should be monitored. In cheaper handheld scanners it’s harder to be sure that every patch is aligned with minimal mismatch so deviations errors may be big because alignment is automatic and almost without operator control.
Edit: Sorry my answer above was about structured light scanning. In my experience on big objects, overall shape accuracy is better in photogrammetry, local accuracy is better in the structured light scanner.
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Thanks for the info Marcin, it’s all very useful!
That’s some useful information. Thanks for sharing it with us! 
By the way, I love this kind of off-topics that lead to learning new stuff and giving inspiration to other people!
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Thank you for the nice words! You are correct, we both work in a very similar field, though I always receive 3d scan data sent by the customers, since I don’t have the necessary equipment and knowledge. I rarely do tuning kits for companies, because my main occupation and passion is designing sports cars and buggies from scratch, except for the donor parts such like engine, brakes, wheels and other main components. Sometimes, I also do custom suspension design and tune-up of the suspension geometry or improving certain aspects of the quality and assembly for other makers that already have their own designs nearly completed.
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Just a short video showing the creation of one of the four 3d printed mounting points for the DRL housing.
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Damn! Do you work at Tesla? Big fan of both you and Tesla hehe 
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No, Elon Musk can’t afford to hire me. 
This is an aftermarket tuning kit.
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Wow, I forgot to answer your question the other day. Just noticed that. 
When I have to create an offset wall of the main model that I have, in most cases I prefer to use the “Loose” option to keep the control points at the bare minimum. Then, I manually build new blend surfaces since the “Loose” option makes them warped. You can see how I created such blend surface around the the offset surfaces in my video above at the 3:17 minute. I purposely made the blend surface smaller than the actual offset surface that it replaced, because the 3d printed part is intended to be glued to a carbon-fible housing, and usually that means that the small inner radius of the latter may have a slightly thicker wall in that particular area.
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Thank you very much for your answer.
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I use mostly tandem Modo and Zbrush but Modo subd work may be done in Rhino or Blender. Software is not so crucial here. For 3d scans, I use Zbrush because it can handle many millions of polygons without any choke.
Edit: I’ve also haven`t seen your question before. Sorry for that.
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The front splitter is now split (no pun intended) into two pieces. Previously, it was designed to be a single piece. The underbody streamline panel is also ready now.
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Most Rhino users usually trim their primary surfaces with a curve, then build the secondary surfaces using the trimmed edge as an input. However, that leads to an unwanted excessive amount of control points that further leads to errors, inability to easily adjust the flow of the control points manually, and slightly larger file size.
A good solution to these issues is to build the secondary surface first, then trim the primary surface using the edge of the secondary surface as a trimming object. If necessary, commands such like ! _InsertKnot and ! _MatchSrf could be used to add a few extra control points to the secondary surface to further improve the continuity between the surfaced edges. That way, the resulting geometry has far less control points.
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After lots of redesigns of the individual elements, the mesh grille is nearly finished and only lacks some mounting points at the back wall and a couple of holes for the parking sensors.
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BOBI, tu sei bravissimo!
Fai sembrare Rhino come se fosse Catia o Icem-Surf, altamente professionale.
Seguo sempre i tuoi lavori e consigli.
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Grazie per le gentili parole! Mi ci è voluto molto tempo e pazienza per realizzare questo particolare paraurti. Mi piace che si sia rivelato un progetto stimolante che mi ha aiutato a sperimentare e apprendere nuove tecniche di modellazione con Rhino. NURBS è una di quelle cose che non possono mai essere padroneggiate, perché ogni caso richiede un approccio unico.
Thank you for the kind words! It took me a lot of time and patience to make this particular bumper. I like that it proved to be a challenging project that helped me experiment and learn new modeling techniques with Rhino. NURBS is one of those things that can never be mastered, because every case requires a unique approach.
You are an absolutely incredible Modeler!!
Very inspiring stuff. Thanks much for sharing.
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