Making a bold line

I see. The first pic was to show the bold lines I’d produced using the ‘printdisplay’ method you suggested. When the image was zoomed out the lines made did not scale down with it and appeared bolder. That’s why I asked about scaling originally. So to clarify, the original image posted shows lines drawn on it by me and modified with the ‘printdisplay’ suggestion. The second image is clear of any lines drawn by me.

What I want to do is produce the graphic lines you see printed on the tape where within the components have been soldered. The image is distorted and hence I can only use it for general reference to create the graphics.

better?

yep… better.

so the ‘thickness’ … or boldness etc of a line is (i believe) more of a pixel dimension… its size appearance has nothing to do with what units you’re modeling in, or how long the curve is…

it doesn’t work something like:

default curve width is 1" wide… and a bold curve is say 2" wide.

as a contrasting example, dimension sizes are set to a particular size in relation to your model… if my dimension’s text is set to 3" tall and i zoom out, the dimension will appear to shrink on the display…

but with lines, they don’t have any true thickness… a line is 0" wide and we can’t actually see them… the lines we see on the display are representations of an invisible object.

so, (in rhino at least), the line will always be 0" wide regardless of how many pixels we’re telling rhino to represent them to us at… likewise, the pixel dimension will stay the same regardless of zoom level.


to do what i think you want, you’d probably have to set your viewport to the size/zoom level/etc prior to doing the lineweight adjustments… then save this view… and don’t mess with the zoom levels… or if you do zoom in to do some details, do so knowing that the final image will be at the level of your original scene… restore view if need be.

otherwise, yeah… draw the rectangles on top of the lines.

except realize when doing this, you’re out of the realm of what a line is or what a bold line is.
or- you’re no longer asking (at certain levels), how do i make a bold line? because it’s not a line anymore.

Ok, thanks much for the patience. So one uses surfaces in this case which makes sense, but surfaces placed on top of other surfaces often won’t display color cleanly so I’ve been adding a tiny bit of depth. That’s probably not a good idea - trying to use rhino for graphics work. I’ll look into creating a graphic in illustrator and importing it. That’s plausible/workable no?

The approach for visualizing the LED tape light “printed graphics” depends on what your model is being used for. A few thoughts that may help with your decision:

  1. Extruding with a very small height as you suggest, is one way. This is a more real world approach since the graphics do have some thickness (albeit extremely thin) and would be adhered/printed to a surface/object.

  2. If it’s mainly for visualization & you don’t want to add any thickness, you could simply create a PlanarSrf of the printed graphic(s) and Split apart from the underlying surface. With this method, you don’t have overlapping geometry, and as in example 1, you can assign a unique material for the printed graphic layer(s).

  3. In a rendering program like KeyShot, it’s possible to export an image graphic/decal from a program like Illustrator, assign it as a label within a material type, and position onto your model as needed. Given the irregularity & location of the printed graphics, and Rhino for Mac currently lacking a few render/texture features like Unwrap & UVEditor, the image-based texturing approach may be more cumbersome than beneficial.

EDIT: I realize now after looking at some other images online that it’s really just part of a printed graphic surrounding the LED you originally inquired about & updated my responses accordingly.

I Don’t understand the split apart method you describe. What is being split?

If your led strip model is a rhino planar srf draw lines on that srf using the line tool. Offset the lines using offset cmd and close the crvs. These planar closed crvs are now outlines of your ‘graphic art lines’ and will scale with the model. Control the ‘graphic art line width’ by appropriately choosing the offset distance. Use these closed crvs and the split cmd to split the model base srf. The collection of resulting split srfs can now be categorized as either ‘graphic lines’ or ‘base geometry’ as appropriate and by associating these srfs respectively in separate layers you can control their color or other characteristics as a group.

Hi James, I’ve lost track of thread thread a bit so responding to your first post, another way to produce nice fat lines for contrast is to create double lines (offset), close the ends and fill with solid hatch of the same colour.

J - re split command, there are a lot of resources that show and explain what different commands do. I think when someone suggest a command it would be worth taking a look at the tool explanations that mcneel provide. They probably explain better than anyone will have time to do here.

Saying that, and I’m replying from my phone so can’t look at your model, the split idea is based on the presumption that presumably your tape is modelled as a surface? If that is the case, you could draw an outline around the thickness of the ‘line’ you want and split the tape surface using the closed curve to cut it. This would allow you to chose a colour for the ‘line’ element that contrasts with the rest of the tape. Being actual geometry, it will ‘scale’ with the zoom level. If you have your tape modelled as a solid, try the Boolean split command instead (curve would probably need to be extruded to work).

I have to say there is a lot of patience being shown here - a remarkable testament to the community here.

Thanks to all for the help. I do appreciate it. Hope I’ve not imposed too much on anyone’s time.

People wouldn’t respond to requests for advice if it was an imposition so no need to be concerned about that. The advice given is generally useful to others too so keep asking… it’s all about helping each other.

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