Hi I have an open box will it be a problem to 3d print

Rhino
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Hi I have an open box will it be a problem to 3d print

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There is “vase mode.”

You don’t need to actually model a wall thickness for 3D printing, the slicer can handle that.

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But can I 3d print an open box?

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If you don’t model wall thickness then what is the thickness it would come out?

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Why can’t you close this off? Just ‘cap’ it.

You don’t need to model wall thicknesses for 3D printing the slicer can control that.

There is this thing called ‘vase mode’ specifically for…what it says…that will do an open shell a constant single(multiple?)bead of plastic in thickness.

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All depends on the printers capabillities. On a FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) printer the wall thickness will be slightly thicker than the nozzle diameter. The exact thickness depends on the filament used and the type of the nozzle.

Looking at the model, (Cura’s) vase mode may be problematic as the cutouts cannot be supported unless a seperate support material is used, eg. in a second extruder. I’ll asume that the box is open at the bottom and closed on top. How would this be handled without support material in vase mode ? Bridging ?

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c.

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I don’t know what bridging or vase mode is.

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So this question still hasn’t been answered. It was sort of diverted to wall thickness. But besides that I never got the answer if the bottom can be open

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The short answer is no the bottom can’t be open, or it would appear to not be a good idea in your case. Do you want to break your model while trying to get the supports out? Why can’t you close it? If the bottom is supposed to be open, PRINT IT UPSIDE DOWN. It would be fastest to just print out the sides separately and glue or otherwise attach them, sometimes people design folding 3D prints with integrated “hinge” features.

Who’s printing this? Talk to THEM about what they think about it. You haven’t shown enough of your model for anyone here to do anything but offer general advice. If you’re doing it…you need to read up on 3D printing, “vase mode” and “bridging” are basic concepts.

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So all I need to do is rotate the cube upside down? or is printing separate.

Do you recommend I go to a 3d printing place for specifics on printing?

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N0.3 is an upside-down version of N0.1.
They’re all printable, but depending on the type of 3D printer you use, the 3rd one will require more filament or support material.
FDM uses filement as support, so does the resin 3D printer. Over $100K machines use support materials that are more expensive than the filement itself.
At all costs, you should analyze the model and consider the cost of support material, which in the third scenario will fill the entire void portion of the box in order to print the top cap.

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NOTE: Unfortunately, your model requires a considerable amount of filament.

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  1. Need to know the exact shape so that I can assist you in analyzing it.

You can separate them based on the size of the 3D printer and the model itself.

  1. 3D printers simply print what you pass them, which means you’ll have to configure filament temperature and support systems like triangular, grid, xxx-gon shapes, and so on. In addition, temperature, speed, and quality can all be set in the software such as Cura / Simplify3D…