They gonna hafter buy Rhino then! The STL file is too big to upload here!
But thank you!
Bob
STP could work, I’m always sending my files as STP to the slicer
It shouldn’t be. Try using Shrinkwrap or Remesh to reduce the triangles.
This is such a cool model. I just remembered coming across a space like this in VR Chat some time ago.
It was really fun to jump around in it as well!
You can see it in this weird japanese youtube video as well:
Weird is right, although I love the fragments of English that appear in Japanese.
The nicest animation I have seen is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gB76RIeBbig, although even they had trouble with the railings.
I made myself a ‘fly-through’ by drawing an arbitrary 3d line following a suitable route, and then animating a slider to follow the line, passing the point and tangent to the Human plugin to set the camera. It worked OK, but was worse than your youtube video, so I won’t embarrass myself by showing it.
Animating people, it occurred to me that the position and pose of the figure is completely determined by the point location along the path, if you include one or two places of decimals and use these to choose the pose. Walking down steps is a cyclic operation repeating every two steps. But I have not tried it.
I found this by chance - what a spectacular find it is. Here are images of the Rhino file and it’s sliced version ready for printing. I used the fattened value for the railings, and scaled it up by a factor of 3 for both images.
I need to take some time and check out the supports (green) because I don’t normally design things that use supports. Print time is estimated at about 25 hours.
Getting the supports off took quite a lot of time. There is a fiddly area at the top of the staircase going up to the tower with the window (i.e. the highest point of your model) where care is needed to avoid accidentally breaking the railings, but otherwise the supports came off quite well.
Good luck!
Play with “top z distance”
You can also print a lot of the overhanging elements separately and glue them in afterwards.
After looking at how the supports would have to be placed (and subsequently removed) I”m thinking that printing separate parts would indeed result in a much nicer final result. Thanks for the suggestion.
I print PLA, and I learned long ago that welding produces far better results than gluing. The solvent named Weld-On 3 (or Weld-On 4 if you live in California) is amazing for joining PLA parts together. It’s a nasty solvent for sure, but is quick to use, works really well, and leaves no trace of a joint.
Wow, they still make that stuff? I started using it in the mid-70’s in California as a modelmaker gluing plexiglas parts together. ISTR when #3 stopped being available and we had to switch to #4.
Amazon