3d printer host

Does rhino act as 3d printer host or do i have to install another printer host ? my nearest library has recently installed a 3d printer but they do not have skilled trainer and the software to run the printer. So i m thinking to do it on my own. Is it possible ? And if i install 3d-printer host in my computer , will i be able to print ?

What’s the make/model of the printer?

I’d reverse engineer this and find that out. . . then go to the manufactures website to download the recommended slicer program which they have bundled with the printer. That will be well tested and you’ll probably avoid having to do any troubleshooting along the way.

From Rhino you can export .STL files, and those can be loaded into the slicer program to run the printer.

It may very well be that the library already has a computer setup to interface with this printer… if so, then you only need to transfer the .STL file onto that computer and run it from there.

OR, there’s probably a good chance that the printer can run prints from an SD Card. If so then export from the slicer program and save to the SD card.

WARNING!!.. Don’t get stuck where your own computer has to be tethered up to the printer in order for this to work (if it can be avoided). . . Your 3D print could take hours to complete — and if that printer requires your computer to be connected for the entire print, then that might be a problem/inconvenient . . . But, chances are this won’t be an issue – it will depend on the printer… With many printers it is possible to just connect your computer just long enough to transfer file info, after which… the printer begins to run the job, and you can disconnect then.

It won’t be complicated really. But you need the slicer program so that your model can be sliced in the thin layers which the printer will use. And You’ll want that program as well because that will also give you the chance to control the resolution of the printer (aka changing the layer count), where more layers equals higher quality and much longer print times. (…an added bonus for wanting perfection).

The big benefit in adjusting resolution is the times when you don’t need the quality… then by adjusting downwards you can save a lot of time for a draft quality print where it’s a suitable outcome.

This sounds like a good opportunity for you to become the resident expert of the library (… of a voluntary nature (perhaps). but maybe that expertise gets rewarded with extra time sharing on the printer, or potential influence for future purchases of material colors or the likes).

Take Care,


I havnt asked the exact model of the printer but its Makerbot. I’ll confirm that and by the way, its a very beautiful insight of you to say that i cud be the resident expert :slight_smile: I see lots of opportunities with such cases Thanks :smiley:

Alright, knowing just MakerBot is probably enough.

Try Downloading the following app… and that should get you working inside of their ecosystem (which I think you probably should do, for now).

Makerbot will undoubtedly have a TON of support info for working with their machines.

You can practice now by just exporting .STL files from Rhino, and then importing them into the MakerBot Desktop program which I linked to above. Play around in it some so you get a sense of where the adjustments are.

And play with the slide handle that shows the layer/slice stacking for the model… and get used to looking at them a little bit.

You’ll also find that there are supports involved, and model orientation as well. The makerbot software will probably automate this for you, but it may also give you the power to edit and change this stuff.

From the Rhino perspective the biggest thing to do is to make good quality Solid models. Often called a ‘watertight’ model.

Avoid exporting models which have holes in them (and I mean holes in their solid structure, not in the design of the shape), OR contain a lot of superfluous, and redundant geometry in order to describe the shape.

Deficiencies in/with these two areas are typically the main reason models don’t print out well.

Nowadays the Slicer programs tend to notify you of problems, and even fix them along the way. But that’s not a great reason for shrugging off your duties to design clean solid models in the first place (of a watertight nature).

i have been following the tutorials from rhino3d…hopefully i’ll not mess with the process and get my design printed…
thank you very much…